Essays
Longer-form thinking on culinary culture, method, and the ideas that shape how we eat.
The Invisibility Criterion: Why Good Craft Disappears
An examination of why craftsmanship that calls attention to itself is usually a lesser version of craftsmanship, and what this implies for how we evaluate restaurants.
Two Questions: Evaluating a Restaurant and Recommending One
On why the act of evaluating a restaurant and the act of advising a traveller about it are different tasks requiring different methods, and what goes wrong when they are conflated.